I run the 3DPrintingDoctorWho.com website, which as it says on the tin is all about 3D designing and printing custom Doctor Who stuff. Between myself and a few other artists, we’ve got about 100 different action figures, props, and customizing parts available. All 100% free. (The only rule is that nobody’s allowed to print any of the stuff for financial gain without the approval of the artist)
I started out about 4 or 5 years ago using a Monoprice Maker Select Plus (basically a clone of the Wanhao Duplicator III) and then upgraded to a Monoprice Maker Ultimate, which was an extremely odd “premium” filament printer designed to print at 0.02mm layer height, the same layer height as most resin printers.
I’m still kicking myself for that decision. Not because it was an especially bad printer,
the print quality was noticeably better than almost ever other FDM printer on the market at the time, and there were certain figures I was only able to print with that extra level of surface detail, but at the time I bought it, home resin printers were just starting out, and I easily could have made the jump into resin a year or two earlier if I’d thought ahead.
I also wasted so much time nursing that [multiple expletives deleted] machine along, that it spent more time offline and in pieces than it did functional. The big problem with filament printers is that when a print fails… and keeps failing, it could be one of about 6 different things, but the end result looks almost identical, so the only way you can test it is by replacing a part and resetting, which is another 2 or 3 days of print time wasted. This is why it took me OVER A YEAR to build and print this:
Obviously, the print quality of filament couldn’t hold a candle to resin, and the moment I bought my first Anycubic Photon, I basically never switched on the Monoprice again.
I am currently using a top of the line (as of 2019) Phrozen Transform, which is still the world’s largest home use resin printer… for a little while longer at any rate. I backed the original kickstarter, so I got a bit of a price break, but it still cost about $2000. Probably the single most expensive piece of equipment I’ve ever purchased that wasn’t a car.
I don’t regret the purchase for one second though. This thing is a printing beast! and it runs like a dream. I went 12 months without having to change the FEP liner once! After a year and a half of pretty heavy use the screen is only now getting to the point where it’s starting to get a tiny bit fuzzy and not quite as crisp as it used to. But I’ve got a replacement lined up, and as with the Photon, it’s a quick and easy 10 minute swap. After dealing with the nightmare of FDM printing, I love having a machine with only two parts that occasionally need replacing maybe once or twice a year.
As for the specs… The Transform is the size of a mini-fridge and you could stack 4 Photons inside and still have plenty of room left over. The maximum print volume is 11.4" x 6.3" x 15.7" meaning that I could theoretically print entire full-sized face masks in the thing. The larger print area means that I can usually prototype print an entire 5.5" scale action figure, even something as massive as the Emperor Dalek, all in one go. Print jobs that once took weeks on a FDM printer are now done in about 24-48 hours. It’s theoretically capable of going down to 0.01mm layer height, but I’ve never seen the need, since anything printed at 0.02mm still looks gorgeous. (And once you paint it, any surface detail beyond that threshold is going to be lost anyways)
I did run into some issues with it about 6 months in where it turns out these early Kickstarter models had a sub-par wiring harness that could burn out… which mine did. It was a pain in the ass getting the thing disassembled (which also meant I had to completely trash my home-built exhaust system) but despite the language barrier, the company was great about it. As soon as I sent them the photo, they sent me not only a new wire harness but a new motherboard as well.
Literally, the only complaint I have about the design is that they stuck the USB port on the back (which is easily fixed with a short USB extension cable) and that the exhaust fan on the front left side about a centimeter away from the door which opens outward, so building my exhaust system required me to (somewhat ironically) 3D print a giant question mark shape with an inline duct fan in the middle to blow the resin fumes out through the window of my office.
Also, somewhat weirdly, the layer height and exposure settings are controlled from resin profiles loaded onto a SD card within the machine itself, but these are only accessible through a wi-fi connection using the machine’s IP address… which can change every time you shut it off.
If you attempt to change any of these settings through Chitubox or another slicer software, it won’t give you any problems, but it’ll ignore those settings in favor of whatever resin profile is currently set. Theoretically this makes it “easier” to switch between profiles on the fly, if you want to use the same STL file to print something in clear resin and then switch to black or opaque, but mostly it’s an unnecessary step.
Luckily, since I’m mainly doing action figures, there’s no reason for me to print at anything other than maximum resolution 100% of the time, but in the rare instance that I wanted to print something fast but simple… like a box, it’s a bit of a pain in the ass to go in and change the resin profile and then remember to change it back again once it’s done.
I mainly just always use the Transform to always print at 0.02mm using regular old Elegoo ABS-like White (meaning I never have to empty the resin vat unless there’s a misprint) with a little bit of SirayaTech Tenacious mixed in for flexibility, and switch over to the smaller Anycubic Photon if I need to print something transparent or out of a specific color or higher than normal layer height.